Reference This: 1987 X 2018

I love when I spot a reference or nod to fashions past. Let's face it, the industry is a cyclical one. Knowing this I am always baffled when someone would pass over vintage or look at pieces from fashions past as something less than and clamor to grab the newest cheaply made garment from a sweatshop from a foreign land or anything with a designer label on it.

I took my daughter to her first ever concert for her 10th birthday and we saw Katy Perry on her Witness Tour. Check out my gratitude post to her HERE.

My daughter was captivated by the music, lights, props, choreography, dancers and most of all the costumes. This was her absolute favorite

So much so that she chose to sing the same song Katy sang wearing this costume and asked for a replica for her school talent show. Remember me mentioning she is 10? I being the frustrated costumer living in a stylist and writer mom's body I agreed to make her one, in a 10 year old appropriate way. Stay tuned for that DIY tribute look and talent show video coming soon.

After studying the costume elements for my own upcoming creation it struck me that I have seen this before, or the spirit of this before in 1987.

This is an image of supermodel Linda Evangelista wearing CHANEL in 1987 in VOGUE UK (Photographer: Hans Feurer)

The texture of the dress in this photograph, the side sleeve ruffles and cascading leg ruffle made the connection for me. Not a replica obviously but it has the same spirit in my mind. Elements of her Witness tour was VERY 80's and I wouldn't be surprised to know that this image was part of the mood board of Katy's costume designer, Nguyen Cong Tri. This plus two other pieces were custom made in Vietnam in conjunction with the designer and Katy's stylist.

Do you see the reference?

Mr. Blackwell: A History

Jan. 5, 1968

Richard Blackwell, known as Mr. Blackwell was a fashion critic, designer, journalist and tv/radio personality.  He was most widely known for his "10 Best/Worst Dressed List" long before the E! Fashion Police. In  1960's when he started his design career he was hired by American Weekly magazine for a one time article on the Best/Worst dressed a list he kept in publication for 47 years (Wiki). It was syndicated and covered in various print, television and radio outlets during that time. He was still called upon by television/radio programs 47 years later for his colorful fashion commentary.

Sadly his fashion design career was less popularly known, although he did dress Yvonne DeCarlo, Jayne Mansfield, Dorothy Lamour, Jane Russell and Nancy Reagan. He started designing in 1958 and the "House of Blackwell" lasted only until the early 80's when fashion made a shift into a more common and casual way of dressing. 

The Designer with Jayne Mansfield

Fashion FYI

*  First in history to present his line on a television broadcast.

*  First to make his line available for plus-size women.

* His Designer Dresses sold at the time for $800 to $1,000

* He was born Richard Sylvan Selzer.

In his 1995 biography, From Rags to Bitches, he admitted his main goal was: 'To become my most unforgettable creation: king of the caustic quote, arbiter of good taste and bad, the ultimate mix of madness, marketing and media attention.'

Mr. Blackwell passed away October 19, 2008 at the age of 86.

Thankfully some of his gorgeous pieces remain available today.

The designer with Jayne Mansfield

This 1960's Black chiffon gown with Orange/Gold Embroidered Floral Bodice and Skirt Trim

Available via Evolution Vintage

$350

DRESStory: The Yellow Nighty

Every previously loved garment has a story.  Designers and costumer's tell stories with fabric and Vintage clothing does the same thing on a more personal level. The story told by Vintage is of  the women/men who came before you who gave the garment a previous life at an event, special occasion or a succession of regular days in their lives. I like to call this phenomenon, DRESStory.

A random dress with image of it's original owner attached. I did not purchase this but was compelled to take a photo. I had shoppers remorse in reverse, I regretted NOT buying and went back but it was gone!

Part of the charm of Vintage clothing to me is the garments history or it's DRESStory. On a rare occasion I get to know it from the original garment owner or their family. More often than not I get to imagine it and daydream about where a gown went to dance or a shift dress went to lunch.

This time I received a written account of a piece that I will retain for my personal collection. This yellow nightgown was sent from Canada to me in California from my 91 year old grandmother, Phyllis. It belonged to her mother who lived to be 96, she would have been my great-great grandmother (by marriage).

My gram's letter ...

 "This nighty was given to my mom in the early 1930's by Teddy Glass' Dad, he was a salesman for ladies apparel from coast to coast in Canada.  He finally asked mom and dad to take in Teddy and Margy hence they grew up with us. Teddy joined up in 1939 and went over seas the same year and sadly to say he died in France.

Phyl

This was when material was quality don't you think for it to last that long with numerous washings"

I adore this story and am proud to welcome this beautiful piece into my personal collection, thus beginning my story of the yellow nighty.

Do you have any garments that you still wear that have a story of a previous life?

Share in the comments!

The Napier Co: A Complete History

Tonight at the Prime Time Emmy awards Hollywood's finest take the walk down the red carpet in gorgeous gowns and fabulous jewels. I always think of the stunning looks when award season rolls around, especially the jewelry. It made me think of the history of jewelry and compelled me to share the ULTIMATE resource guide to the history of the Napier Company.  Seriously this is THE MOST comprehensive and extensive reference book on jewelry that I have ever seen. PS- I'm obsessed with jewelry, own a Vintage clothing and accessory company and have been a student of fashion my entire life, so I have seen my fair share of books on the subject. This book by Melinda L. Lewis with Henry Swen is a serious feast for the eyes, a gift for fashion historians and women who have a passion for jewelry.

Napier Cuff c. 1954

There are 1011 pages backed with over 4,000 high quality photos and information. The book walks the reader through the historical emergence of jewelry in fashion and it's place in the era's preceding Napier's conception. It guides you through the  initial history of the Napier Co., starting in 1875 and decade by decade discusses the significance of this company's impact on the costume jewelry market and in fashion. 

Excerpt from the book

A pictorial history accompanies all of the facts with amazing images of jewelry pieces, sets, original sketches of designs and Napier advertisements. She also provides a detailed look at clasps, findings and stamps which is a great resource when trying to date your Napier pieces.

1970-Ad: Francis Fujio, Napier Co. Archives.

Melinda spent the better part of 11 years researching and gathering data, images and facts from many resources, including individuals who were employed by the Napier Co. 

I had the chance to chat with this Author and Jewelry Maven recently,

Melinda

LG: Why Napier? 

ML: I had the opportunity to purchase some Napier jewelry in 2001. I was fairly new to collecting and eager to learn everything I could about costume jewelry. I had taken the pieces of Napier and spread them out on the family room floor while trying to organize the jewelry by decade. There were some pieces I could identify as being 1950s, but I realized too there were many pieces which I could not accurately identify, and I could not find any resources that had the information I needed to circa date the jewelry. Having only a single paragraph or so about the company’s history available on the Internet, it occurred to me that if this company had been in business since “1875,” there had to more substance to the company than the brief summary I found available. With search engines not being as advanced as they are today, it took me a while to locate the name of the former president of the company, but once I did, that first contact led to 11 years of research.

LG:  What was your favorite part of this journey? any items/info particularly harder to find? 

ML: One of the favorite parts of this experience was to share with former employees how much collectors loved the product. How they (the Napier employees) related to the jewelry was very different. Yes, they were proud of their work, but they had no idea people wanted to know everything they could about a piece; from how it was made to the designer who created it. For many, Napier had been part of their family for generations. It was a job … a good job, and folks always said it had a family-like atmosphere, but they had no idea about the world of costume jewelry collectors. It was great fun for them to see how excited I would get over a piece or when I learned an inside story. These folks were responsible for bringing so much enjoyment and pleasure to the world through their art and skill in making jewelry.

I remember once being down in Florida, interviewing former president and CEO, Howard Schaefer. We were in the middle of a nice conversation talking about the history of the company and about Mr. Napier. I was recording the conversation and of course I was in heaven, then he abruptly turned to me and said, “Why in the hell do you want to write about Napier? Turn that damn thing off!”  I think many employees were a little dumbfounded that I found the company interesting. Nevertheless, Mr. Schaefer was incredibly charming, and we had a fabulous time with both him and his wife. I learn some amazing things about Mr. Napier, most of which I kept out of the book and private.

LG: Who was this book created/written for?

ML: The book was written first for both the collector and the fashion historian. I felt there was a void in the documented history of the Napier Co and the history that was available was either incomplete or inaccurate. However, as the research got more involved, and I had interviewed with more Napier employees, it became a project written for the legacy of the company and its employees. It was a way to recognize Napier and its significant influence in fashion adornment over decades.

One of her all time FAV pieces: "Horse Nail."

LG: Do you have a large Napier jewelry collection? 

ML: I do have a number of Napier pieces and perhaps more than the average collector of vintage costume jewelry. However, my collection pales in comparison to some Napier collectors who have been collecting for decades, or who live near Meriden where the old plant use to be.  Napier use to sell jewelry very inexpensively at a factory outlet store; it was the first company in Meriden’s business district to open a factory store and it proved to be a very profitable move for them. Ultimately, the company opened 10 factory stores around the country.

This past year, I have tried to acquire more pieces as my goal will be, to someday, share this collection in some sort of exhibit. But, as Napier becomes more sought-after, it is getting harder for me to purchase it than ever before.  

This reference book is a steal at $139 and  I feel so fortunate to have it as part of my showroom library.

PURCHASE THE BOOK HERE AND SAVE $10

(Final Prince $129)

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Will you buy the book? or do you have it? 

share your comments below!

Candles for CoCo

On this day in 1883 in Saumur France, Gabrielle "Coco" Bonheur Chanel was born. A woman born into relative obscurity and has become one of the most iconic figures of the 20th century and one of THE most iconic and influential in fashion. Born to an unmarried laundry lass and street vendor she had a life of humble beginnings. She spun great tales of her past and upbringing as one could only guess because she was embarrassed of it. She was once quoted as saying, "My life didn't please me, so I created my life".

She had a job as a seamstress early in her life but her start in fashion was as a milliner (hat maker). She worked from an apartment as a distraction/hobby that quickly evolved into a full blown business. In 1910 she began to sell her hats from an established boutique at 21 rue Cambon, Paris (The CHANEL flagship boutique is currently at 31 rue Cambon).  

To CoCo We Give Thanks For ...

1) LBD - Little Black Dress. The most iconic of the CHANEL garments. The fist LBD is reportedly constructed from  thin silk, crèpe de chine and had long sleeves. It is the most versatile, fashionable, functional and elegant garment EVERY women regardless of shape, size, budget or age MUST have hanging in her closet in one form or another. The LBD is figure friendly and fabulous. A classic, undisputed wardrobe staple.

2) Costume Jewelry - She made what was then "undesirable" to the wealthy French, chic, timeless and fabulous. She said: " "It's disgusting to walk around with millions around the neck because one happens to be rich. I only like fake jewelry … because it's provocative."Vaughan, Hal (2011). Sleeping with the enemy: Coco Chanel's secret war. New York: Knopf

I LOVE costume jewelry. I have always found it to be much more creative and unique than it's high priced, precious counterpart. Piling on the faux-pearls is still VERY chic!

The bracelets worn in the above image are one of CoCo's favourite pieces: A white enameled cuff featuring the Maltese Cross in 'faux jewels'

3) The CHANEL Suit. One of the most iconic looks in fashion. It has stood the test of time and thanks to Karl Lagerfeld we can all enjoy the suit in its updated version, that's if you have $4,000+ to spend on a suit. The original version was inexpensive and for a lady's comfort and function to travel. It was created from a jersey knit fabric especially created for Coco.

4) Men's Wear Inspired Looks - CoCo embraced pants as sportswear in the 1920's. A bold feminist move in the early days before it was socially acceptable for women to wear pants. 

5) The CHANEL Handbag - THIS is the bag to aspire to ladies. The quilted Chanel bag with the chain strap and interlaced CC logo is the most coveted and classic bag in Fashion in my humble PROFashional opinion. Some would argue the Birkin is because of it's waiting list and price but I'm partial to Chanel. The classic 2.55 (named after the month and year of design - Feb 1955) - black and hand quilted. Often imitated and never duplicated. Karl Lagerfeld revived and reissued it in the 80's and it has come a long way with different shapes, colors and fabrications but it has NEVER lost it's value or reputation. It boast a a heft price tag too; approx $4,000+ new. It is an investment piece that does not really loose it's value. Completely justifiable: Dear Santa ...

She was a trailblazer in fashion and lived a very interesting life. A feminist and a style visionary. There would have been 130 candles for CoCo today but sadly she left us in 1971 at the age of 87. Her legacy lives on and continues to thrive as the house of CHANEL is one of the most coveted brands on the planet! Although strange to pay tribute to someones birthday who has long since ended her earthly journey, attention had to be paid today to celebrate the life of such an amazing lady and a true inspiration to me and fashionistas everywhere.

Cheers to you COCO!

The Darnell Collection: Glimpse into Fashion's Past

Fashion's history has always been of interest to me. After all the entire business of Fashion is based on the re-designing and re-conceptualizing of fashion's past to create the new, fresh and current.  I have found some amazing treasures for my eBoutique, EVOLUTION VINTAGE over the last few years but could not imagine being given an amazing Vintage collection from virtually out of the blue.

Late 1930s silk crepe and silk fringed dress by Madeliene Vionnet. In the background is a silk velvet dress with lace panels made by an unknown dressmaker in the USA

This is exactly what happened to Australian Collector, Curator and Author Charlotte Smith.  She inherited a priceless Vintage clothing collection from her American godmother, Doris Darnell. Over 3,500 items started arriving at her door step dating from 1790-1995. 

Her collection has continued to grow (to well over 7,000 pieces) and be showcased for the world to see. It spawned two amazing books too: "Dreaming of Dior" & "Dreaming of Chanel". Each dress tells the reader a story as they pour over the lush fashion illustrations provided by Grant Cowan.

I had the pleasure of chatting with Charlotte about her amazing collection and style.

LG: What is your favorite piece(s) from the collection and why?

CS: My favourite piece is an evening dress made by Lucile, an Edwardian dressmaker, also known as Lady Duff Gordon. She created gorgeous and sumptuous collections all made with exquisite gossamer silks, gold threads, satin roses and bows, glass beads. She called her collections names like "Gowns of Emotion". My dress is dated 1911 and is made entirely of gold threads, cream silk and beautiful, dainty satin flowers. Lucile is famous for surviving the sinking of the Titanic. She, her husband and her secretary were rescued, but under scandalous circumstances - only 20 or so people were in her lifeboat when 40 could have been saved. It was claimed she hampered the rescue of other! I love this bit of history behind the designer of the gorgeous dress!

1960s sequin mini by Andres Courreges, Paris 

LG:  Why did you opt for Fashion illustrations for your book as opposed to actually photographs of the pieces?

CS: I felt photographs would have killed the romance and nostalgia of the stories behind the dresses. With a photograph you need facts and figures. With an illustration, a good story is enough to keep the magic alive. My books are meant to be a snapshot of women's lives and what they wore, not an historical account with facts and figures. Also, some of the dresses were too fragile to dress on a mannequin so the artist, Grant Cowan, was able to sketch it as I held it, and then, with artistic licence, created the 'perfect' imaginary woman to wear it. 

LG: Do you continue to collect pieces? Are you looking for anything in particular now?

CS: I am always collecting, but now collect things in my size!! I am also continually being given things so the Darnell Collection continues to be a custodian of other people's treasures. I am looking for truly elegant Valentino from the 70s, Biba and Ozzie Clark from the 60s. I am really trying to build the 60s and 70s element of my collection at the moment.

Early 1970s Dior wool jumpsuit

LG: Is the collection currently on exhibit? Where can readers see it?

CS: The collection is on exhibit in Australia at the moment with an exhibition in Queensland and then another one in Victoria in July. Only small parts of the collection are every on display at once, and always themed. I don't have anything planned for the US at the moment but would love to be asked!

1930s silk velvet evening dress

LG:  What would be the ULTIMATE piece for your collection? Your personal Fashion "Holy Grail"?

CS: A LBD by Chanel from the late 20s. She introduced a black dress as the ultimate in chic dressing in the late 1920s - 1927 to be exact. I would like one from this date! 

CoCo Chanel - LBD 1920's

LG:  How would you describe your personal style?

CS: A blend of vintage couture, high street and designer clothes. I prefer new and glamorous shoes and some element of vintage and high street. This way, I can ensure I will look individual with a unique look. It also allows me to wear haute couture and couture - vintage haute couture/couture is more affordable than new pieces. I also like to wear vintage jewelry with my newly purchased clothes. Always blending old with new! 

LG:  If you had one piece of style advice for Women what would it be?

CS: Whatever you choose - choose quality (cut, fabric, design, silhouette). It doesn't have to be a major designer name and it could be off the rack, but some clothes just get it right in their look and use quality fabric. And this goes for vintage as well as high street. 

I am in LOVE with the 2 book set and hope that her future collecting spawn a few more editions.

Want to WIN a COPY of "Dreaming of Dior"? Or a FAB sample book with 8 stories and illustrations personally SIGNED by the Author?

Comment below, on the Evolution Vintage Facebook Page or Tweet Me - Tell me how Fashion's Past has influenced YOU and your current WARDROBE. How do YOU Re-Style Fashion's Past Current?

I will pick 2 winners! Contest Closes Sat June 30th!

Good Luck and Keep DREAMING!