Showing posts with label Hubert de Givenchy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hubert de Givenchy. Show all posts

Monday, October 7, 2013

aMUSEing

Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy

I was looking at a series of images today from W Magazine about fashion designers and their muses. The concept of "muses" originated in Greek Mythology and were the daughters of Zeus and Mnemosyne, goddesses of the inspiration of literature, science and the arts. They were considered the source of the knowledge, related orally for centuries in the ancient culture that was contained in poetic lyrics and myths.(Wiki)

For this application a muse is defined as, a woman, or a force personified as a woman, who is the source of inspiration for a creative artist (1) Fashion designers throughout history have all had muses at one time or another.

In the W piece it was greats like Yoko Ono  (For Proenza Schouler) 
Photo: W Magazine

and not so great's like MIA (for Donatella Versace)

When thinking of the ultimate fashion designers muse I think of Audrey Hepburn and the french designer Hubert de Givenchy. Their relationship was legendary and produced some of the most beautiful and iconic dresses of all time.
Iconic: Givenchy "Breakfast at Tiffany's" LBD - 1961

They met in 1953 on the set of Audrey's film "Sabrina" and they remained friends until her death in 1993. Givenchy told the WSJ, "She was wonderful. She was someone unique. She was real. She could do everything"

Hepburn said (as read in Vogue) "His are the only clothes in which I am myself. He is far more than a couturier, he is a creator of personality," 


1984

Do you have a muse? 

If you were a designer/artist who would your muse be?

Vintage Givenchy via Evolution Vintage

Friday, March 29, 2013

A PEARLfect Dress

Black and White is a MAJOR trend this season. I ALWAYS love to see what the house of CHANEL puts down their elaborate runways. Every season Karl Lagerfeld realizes a different fashion fantasy dream. Spring/Summer 2013 showed a lot of black and white and the fabulous signature CHANEL faux-pearl accessories.

These two PEARLfect pieces in particular caught my eye:

Total PEARLfection! I love the "pearls" are the embellishment on the dress and top, not just the accessory.

At EvolutionVintage you can acquire a PEARLfect Vintage Givenchy dress in black velvet with the same PEARLfect embelishment! An amazing piece of Fashion History.



Dress Details: Vintage Givenchy Cocktail Dress (80's) ~ Velvet with faux pearl embellishments. "Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique" Label - Made in Paris France. Size 38/8. Style: G 72 R, color: 02 - 65% Rayon 35% Cupro. Dry Clean. Tiny zippers at cuffs. Back Zip Metal (Swiss). neck/hem/cuff trimmed in "satin" (black). Slight shoulder pad. EXCELLENT!

Bust=36"
Waist=34"
Hip=41"
Length (shoulder to Hem)=39.5"
Sleeve Length=21"

Sunday, July 15, 2012

Sole Sister Sunday: André Perugia

The designer looking for the perfect size among his 100,000 lasts (1951)

Long before Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik there was André Perugia. He was the first "celebrity" shoe designer.  born in 1893 to a shoemaker father he wasted no time joining the family business by opening his shop at age 16. He began creating unique shapes and introducing a new heel that exceeded his fathers artistry and price points.

He used unusual materials for his custom creations and high society women flocked to the French Rivera were dazzled by his designs.  The world famous couturier Paul Poiret assured his success and hired Perugia at the end of WWI. 


He transformed Josephine Baker trademark turban into a quilted kidskin sandal (AKA "The Turban Sandal - 1928 which is also MY personal FAV!).
Jospehine Baker in costume Ziegfeld Follies 
Turban Sandal, 1928


"Homage To Picasso" 1950 

He continued to experiment with unconventional material, shapes and adornments throughout his career. His career spanned 50 years and associated himself and worked for (with) I. Miller,Charles Jourdan, Jacques Fath, Hubert de Givenchy. He also worked alongside Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930's.   

Heel-less Shoe 1937

In his book "From Eve to Rita Hayworth" - A collection of psychological portraits he theorized that the way to discover and unmask a woman's personality was to study her feet.
1931



Patent 1956 Shoe Design

He was known for "talking to his shoes" as he created them and earned the badge of eccentric along with genius as many great artists do. He was a technical genius and a true innovator for the Sole Sister.


Corkscrew Heel 1952



The designer passed away in Cannes France in November of 1977.

1958 | André Perugia helps Jerry Stutz
(president/director of NY's Henry Bendel
and former I.Miller vice president)
IMAGE SOURCE: http://www.ipaddock.it

"The wealthiest woman in the world could not pay me to make her an ugly pair of shoes"
Source: Book: p. 46 Shoes - Linda O'Keeffe

Saturday, February 26, 2011

HAUTE COUTURE: The Real Deal


The most over used and misused terms in my opinion in fashion is the term "Couture". I thought that I would post the REAL definition of the term Haute Couture along with some history.

The definition of the term Haute Couture is french for "high dressing" or "high sewing" and it refers to the creation of exclusive, custom-made, custom-fitting clothing. Haute Couture garments are made to order for specific clients and utilize the best and most expensive fabrics and embellishments. The garments are usually hand constructed and sewn by the hand of several skilled seamstresses that pay exceptional attention to details. The execution of these garments are very labour intensive and time consuming, hence the high cost. Couture is a commonly used abbreviation of Haute Couture but it is referring to the same thing.

Charles Frederick Worth was dubbed the "Father of Couture" and this talented Englishmen relocated to Paris in 1845 where he ultimately found his success. Worth frequently used lavish fabrics and luxurious trimmings. He incorporated elements of historic dress and paid particular attention to the fit of his designs. He created one-of-a-kind pieces for his most important clients, he also displayed a variety of his designs on live models at 'The House of Worth'. Clients made their selections and from there each garment was tailor-made in Worth's workshop.

CHARLES WORTH


A large number of surviving Worth garments are part of the permanent collection of The Costume Institute (MET), as well as in other institutions in the United States. He was popular among the American wealthy, as well as European royalty and aristocrats. his fashion house continued after his death at the hands of his sons but was closed in 1952 when his great grand-son retired from the family business.

((Source: Charles Frederick Worth (1826–1895) and The House of Worth Thematic Essay Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History The Metropolitan Museum of Art))

DID YOU KNOW? In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris based in Paris, France. Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the label haute couture. The criteria for haute couture were established in 1945 and updated in 1992.

The couture house is customarily composed of two parts, one devoted to dressmaking (flou), the other devoted to tailoring (tailleur) of suits and coats.

CHRISTIAN DIOR ~ 1947


PAUL POIRET, 1919


To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture must follow these rules:

1) Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.

2) Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.

3) Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.


There are 4 categories of membership which include; Official Members, Correspondent members (Foregin), Guest members, Jewelery and accessories.

2011 Members include (Official & Correspondent - foreign): Adeline André, Anne Valérie Hash, Atelier Gustavo Lins, Chanel, Christian Dior, Christophe Josse, Franck Sorbier, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maurizio Galante, Stéphane Rolland, Elie Saab, Giorgio Armani,Maison Martin Margiela, Valentino.

HUBERT De GIVENCHY, 1968

VALENTINO

CHANEL, 1937


JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, 2010


Jewelery: Boucheron, Chanel Joaillerie Chaumet, Dior Joaillerie, Van Cleef & Arpels


DIOR JOAILLERIE
Accessories: Loulou de la Falaise, Maison Michel Massaro, On Aura Tout Vu


FORMER MEMBERS: Donatella Versace, Elsa Schiaparelli, Emilio Pucci, Chado Ralph Rucci, Christian Lacroix, Erica Spitulski, Erik Tenorio, Fred Sathal, Guy Laroche, Hanae Mori, Jean Patou, Jean-Louis Scherrer, Lanvin, Lecoanet Hemant, Loris Azzaro, Louis Feraud, Mainbocher, Marcel Rochas, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Pierre Balmain
Pierre Cardin, Ralph Rucci, Torrente, Yves Saint Laurent, Gai Mattiolo
Anna May

ATELIER VERSACE (Gianni Versace)

CHRISTIAN LACROIX 1987

I read somewhere that there are approximately 2,000 women who still purchase haute couture. The designers reserve their high-end creations for celebrities to wear down the red carpets around the world. It is an amazing advertisement for the houses and still makes the dying craft relevant.

The term has been mis-used within the industry since the 1980's ~ Imagine the looks on the faces of the REAL "Couturiers" when they see a Velour Track suit with the label "Couture" .. . not so Juicy.


Haute Couture?? I don't think so ....