Thursday, March 20, 2014

Textile Talk: VELVET

Tom Ford F/W 2014

I don't know what it is but recently every where I turn there is another amazing frock constructed from VELVET! It is a BIG trend on the 2014 runways. 
Elie Saab/Reem Acra

We saw this fabric adored in the 1990's too. I loved Tom Ford for GUICCI's debut collection in F/W 1995. The velvet tuxedo and those lush velvet pants paired with the satin blouses. 
 GUCCI 1995

Gucci 1996

The most famous film to use a lot of this fabric is none other than Gone with the Wind. Great balls of fire, I've never seen so much velvet used in one film!

I adore this fabric and although some feel it is a fall/winter fabric I think that you can wear it all year long, in the evening.

This textile is so lush, rich and a  source of fabric tactile stimulation. 

Did you know? There are 15 types of velvet. (Wiki)
1875 British Ball Gown (MET Museum)

Chiffon (or transparent) velvet: Very lightweight velvet on a sheer silk or rayon chiffon base.

Ciselé: Velvet where the pile uses cut and uncut loops to create a pattern.

Crushed: This type of velvet can be produced by pressing the fabric down in different directions. It can also be produced by mechanically twisting the fabric while wet. The result is patterned appearance that is very lustrous.
Devoré or burnout. A velvet treated with a caustic solution to dissolve areas of the pile, creating a velvet pattern upon a sheer or lightweight base fabric.

Embossed: A metal roller is used to heat-stamp the fabric, producing a pattern.

Hammered: This type is extremely lustrous, appears dappled, and somewhat crushed.

Lyons: A densely woven, stiff, heavier-weight pile velvet used for hats, coat collars and garments.
Mirror: A type of exceptionally soft and light crushed velvet.
Kenneth Cole

Nacré: Velvet with an effect similar to shot silk, where the pile is woven in one or more colours and the base fabric in another, creating a changeable, iridescent effect.

Panné: Also a type of crushed velvet, panné is produced by forcing the pile in a single direction by applying heavy pressure. Sometimes, less frequently, called paon velvet.

Pile-on-pile: A particularly luxurious type of velvet woven with piles of differing heights to create a pattern.
 Pile-on-pile voided velvet w Brocading and Boucle wefts 1500-1550

Plain: Commonly made of cotton, this type of velvet has a firm hand and can be used for many purposes.

Utrecht: A pressed and crimped velvet associated with Utrecht, Holland.

Velveteen is a type of imitation velvet. It is normally made of cotton or a combination of cotton and silk. It has a pile that is short (never more than 3mm deep), and is closely set. It has a firm hand and a slightly sloping pile. Unlike true velvet, this type has greater body, does not drape as easily, and has less sheen.

Wedding ring or ring velvet: Another term for devoré and/or chiffon velvets which are allegedly fine enough to be drawn through a ring

Shop Vintage Velvet

No comments:

Post a Comment